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Sensitive skin and a healthy skin barrier

Skin Needs
•
July 15, 2023
•
10 minutes


Table of Contents


In the first part of this article on sensitive skin, we defined sensitive skin and subsequently contrasted it with diseased skin and skin allergies. We also touched briefly on the causes and triggers of hyperreactive skin.

In the second part, we would like to particularly emphasize one of the most important causes of sensitive skin: the excessive consumption of skincare products and the use of irritating substances in care products, which can lead to damage of the skin barrier. This is, in fact, in contradiction with the care philosophy of VENYA.

Following this, we will give you a few tips on how to avoid hyperreactive skin and how the sensitivity of the skin can be reduced. Hyperreactive skin can have various causes. One of the main causes is the excessive consumption of skincare products and the use of irritating substances in these products. These can impair the skin barrier and lead to increased sensitivity. It is important to carefully check the ingredients of skincare products and to avoid irritating substances.

A strong skin barrier: the be-all and end-all of healthy skin

To help you better understand the phenomenon of sensitive skin, we start with the aspect that all people with sensitive skin have in common: a damaged skin barrier. But what is the skin barrier anyway?

Our skin barrier is composed of two elements:

  • the uppermost layer of the epidermis – the stratum corneum

  • the acid mantle, which lies on the stratum corneum and is a mixture of sweat and sebum.

The stratum corneum consists of skin cells and lipids and should remain as impermeable as possible. If proteins in the skin cells and lipids around the cells are damaged, the top layer of skin becomes porous. This results, on the one hand, in water loss from the skin and, on the other hand, in easier infiltration of skin-unfriendly microbes into the epidermis.

A stratum corneum that is as dense as possible is therefore the skin’s first line of defense against unwanted microbes and dehydration.

The second line of defense is the acid mantle, whose miraculous effect lies in its acidic pH value. The acidic pH value of the skin surface (around 5) is a favorable environment for the skin-friendly microorganisms of our skin microbiome, whereas unwanted pathogens prefer a higher pH value.

To reduce skin sensitivity or to prevent hypersensitive skin, we should therefore primarily strengthen both lines of defense.

An intact and strong skin barrier is crucial for healthy skin. It consists of the stratum corneum, the uppermost layer of the epidermis, and the acid mantle, a mixture of sweat and sebum. An intact skin barrier protects the skin from moisture loss and unwanted microorganisms. It is important to strengthen the skin barrier to reduce skin sensitivity.


Sensitive skin and a weak skin barrier

Unfortunately, sensitive skin is at a disadvantage from the start: Experts suspect that the skin barrier in people with sensitive skin is thinner (i.e., consists of fewer layers).

Furthermore, sensitive skin is characterized by a reduced amount of skin-own lipids, specifically ceramides. This means that the skin barrier of sensitive skin is less dense than that of insensitive, healthy skin and therefore requires extra care.

But how can such a disadvantaged skin barrier be “densified”?

Biomimetic skincare with lipid-lamellar technology

Studies show that skin-own lipids in skincare products are perceived by the skin as its own lipids and can successfully fill gaps in the lipid network.

We should therefore rely as much as possible on skincare products that contain skin-own lipids: ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids.

It would be even better if the structure of the care products used imitated the skin’s own lipid structure. Lipids in the stratum corneum have a special structure that resembles (double) lamellae. Thanks to the latest lipid-lamellar technology in skincare, such a structure can be used in care products.

And it is precisely this special lipid structure that VENYA uses in its skincare preparations – we call this concept biomimetic skincare because it mimics natural, biological skin properties. (Read more here)

The use of skincare with biomimetic properties and skin-own lipids would therefore be a first, helpful step toward densifying the skin barrier and reducing skin sensitivity.

Biomimetic skincare with lipid-lamellar technology aims to mimic the natural structure and function of skin lipids. Studies have shown that the use of skin-like lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids can strengthen the skin barrier. Products with lipid-lamellar technology can help reduce skin sensitivity by supporting and supplementing the skin's lipid network.


Acidic pH value of skincare

The second line of defense against the development of sensitive skin and the avoidance of hyperreactions is maintaining an acidic pH value of the skin. This can be achieved, among other things, with the help of products that have a slightly acidic pH value. For this reason, VENYA consistently uses a pH value of 4.9 in all care products, which best supports the balance of the skin microbiome. We have already written about this in detail in this journal post (here).


An acidic pH value in skincare is important to maintain the skin barrier. The natural pH value of the skin is around 5 and creates an environment that benefits skin-friendly microorganisms and counteracts unwanted pathogens. Using skincare products with a slightly acidic pH value can help reduce skin sensitivity and support the balance of the skin microbiome.


Further tips for sensitive skin

What else can we do to reduce skin sensitivity? Apart from using skincare with skin-own lipids and a lipid-like lamellar (biomimetic) structure, as well as an acidic pH value, you can support a healthy skin barrier through the following factors:

First, avoid potentially irritating ingredients in skincare. These include, among others, higher amounts of ethanol (denatured alcohol), essential oils and their components, harsh surfactants in cleansers, and perfume.

Second, less is more. Higher concentrations of active ingredients in skincare, such as antioxidants or retinoids, can be beneficial for the skin. However, one should not start with high concentrations, but rather incorporate them into the skincare routine step by step. The skin will tell you what it tolerates and when to stop. When in doubt: better to use lower-concentrated active ingredients than a weakened skin barrier.

Also, the entire skincare routine should not consist exclusively of highly concentrated active ingredients. Antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, and soothing substances should be in a balanced ratio to each other and be accompanied by skin-like humectants and lipids.

Furthermore, you should not over-cleanse or over-exfoliate the skin, as both weaken skin barrier functions.

Third, frequently changing skincare preparations or regularly adjusting the skincare routine can overwhelm the skin, which may lead it to react with sensitivity. As long as a skin-friendly care product shows no negative effect on the skin (such as redness or tightness), stick with it. The skin barrier will thank you for consistency in the care routine.

Finally, fourth, think about wearing sunscreen daily with sufficient UVA and UVB protection values. UVA rays are the most important triggers of free radicals. Free radicals, in turn, are not only responsible for damaging collagen and elastin fibers in the dermis, but also for destroying skin proteins and lipids in the stratum corneum.

We hope that the extensive information about sensitive skin as well as tips regarding skin sensitivity will help you in selecting the right care products and in compiling your skincare routine.

  • Avoid potentially irritating ingredients in skincare products such as denatured alcohol, essential oils, harsh surfactants, and perfume.
  • Start with lower concentrations of active ingredients and increase them gradually so as not to overwhelm the skin.
  • Ensure a balanced ratio of antioxidants, anti-inflammatory ingredients, humectants, and lipids in your skincare routine.
  • Avoid excessive cleansing and exfoliating, as this can weaken the skin barrier.
  • Stick with skin-friendly care products that do not cause negative reactions on your skin.
  • Apply sunscreen daily with sufficient UVA and UVB protection to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals.

Sources for further reading

Viodé, C./Rouquier, A. et al. (2022): Specific protection of sensitive skin against environmental stress by maintenance and improvement of barrier function, in: Journal of European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 36 Suppl. 5:13-20

Nisbet, S.J./Targett D. et al (2019): Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti-redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin, in: International Journal of Cosmetical Science, 41(6):534-547

Farage, MA (2019): The Prevalence of Sensitive Skin, in: Frontiers in Medicine, (6):98

Cho, H./Chung, B. et al. (2012): Quantitative study of stratum corneum ceramides contents in patients with sensitive skin, in: The Journal of Dermatology, 39(3):295-300

Duarte, I./Silveira, J. et al. (2017): Sensitive skin: Review of an ascending concept, in: Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia 92(4):521-525



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