Cosmetic Active Ingredient in Focus: Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid
- What is hyaluronic acid?
- Hyaluronic acid in skin care
- Forms of hyaluronic acid in skin care
- What is cross-linked hyaluronic acid?
- Hyaluronic acid and the skin's natural moisture
- Serum with hyaluronic acid? – Decision-making aid
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide produced by the body, which, among other things, is responsible for moisturizing the skin. Hyaluronic acid is stimulated in the middle layer of the skin, the dermis, by skin cells called fibroblasts, and is capable of binding a very large amount of moisture in the skin. For this reason, hyaluronic acid is sometimes referred to as a "water magnet."
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Hyaluronic acid is an endogenous polysaccharide essential for skin hydration. As a water magnet, it can bind large amounts of moisture in the skin, keeping it plump and elastic.
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However, with age, both the quantity and quality of hyaluronic acid in the skin decrease. Hyaluronic acid molecules become smaller, and the number of hyaluronic acid chains diminishes, resulting in a reduced overall volume of the substance in the skin.
Less hyaluronic acid, in turn, means a reduced ability of the skin to retain moisture. The skin's declining water-binding capacity manifests itself in the form of dehydration and loss of elasticity; the skin feels tight, and wrinkles become more visible.
However, not only the natural aging process is responsible for less hyaluronic acid in the skin, but also external factors – primarily sun exposure. UV light produces so-called metalloproteinases, i.e., enzymes responsible for the formation of free oxygen radicals. Free radicals, in turn, not only destroy our skin proteins – collagen and elastin – but also other elements of the epidermis and dermis, including hyaluronic acid.
Now you are probably asking whether the hyaluronic acid in skincare can partially replace the skin's own hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid in skin care
The ability of hyaluronic acid molecules in skincare products to increase skin moisture is less pronounced than that of the skin's own hyaluronic acid. Nevertheless, clinical studies show that hyaluronic acid in creams and serums can have a measurable impact on skin moisturization, which can also reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Hyaluronic acid is found in many skincare products. Studies show that creams and serums with hyaluronic acid can improve skin hydration and reduce wrinkles.
A research team from the Ludwig Maximilians University in Munich documented that a moisturizer with 0.1% hyaluronic acid increased both the moisture content and skin elasticity of the treated skin areas after two months of use. (1) According to a specialist article published in 2021, skin moisture could be increased after just a single application of a hyaluronic serum. (2)
Forms of hyaluronic acid in skin care
Cosmetic manufacturers use different forms of hyaluronic acid in skin care. These range from very large molecules, which cause a short-term superficial plumping of the skin, to the smallest molecule sizes in oligo hyaluronic acid, which can penetrate deeper into the skin.
However, the best results should be expected from a moisturizing serum with a combination of different forms of hyaluronic acid. For example, Venya's Healthy Aging Multi-Functional Serum uses the salt form of hyaluronic acid with smaller molecules, as well as the latest form of the active ingredient – cross-linked hyaluronic acid.
What is cross-linked hyaluronic acid?
There has been a lot of recent discussion about the cross-linked variant of hyaluronic acid (INCI: sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer), as it has the potential to achieve more in skincare than the conventional linear variant of the active ingredient.
The latest form of hyaluronic acid, cross-linked hyaluronic acid, shows promising results. It offers better skin penetration and effectively increases skin hydration.
What does cross-linking mean? This technology connects hyaluronic acid chains to each other, creating a network of hyaluronic acid molecules. The higher density and molecular mass, in turn, should guarantee greater stability of the substance.
The properties of cross-linked hyaluronic acid are currently being intensively researched; however, the superiority of this active ingredient variant has already been confirmed in science.
Previous studies on the effect of cross-linked hyaluronic acid documented that this connection method – compared to non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid molecules – results in better hydration of the epidermis. (3) In addition, cross-linked hyaluronic acid proved to be more stable and showed better skin penetration. (4,5)
The hyaluronic acid variant used in VENYA Healthy Aging Multi-Functional Serum would thus prevent a rapid breakdown of the active ingredient in the skin, which would lead to longer-lasting hydration.
Hyaluronic acid and the skin's natural moisture
After discussing the effects of the skin's own hyaluronic acid and the forms of hyaluronic acid in skincare, there's one more aspect to consider: the connection between the effect of hyaluronic acid and the skin's natural moisture.
It is often heard that the same skincare product yields different results for different people: one skin might react calmly and become better moisturized, while another appears red and irritated. This is because the active ingredients in a skincare product come into contact with highly individual skin properties. For instance, a damaged skin barrier might react differently to a formulation than robust, non-sensitive skin. One and the same serum could lead to breakouts in oily, acne-prone skin, while it would have a desired, for example, calming, effect on very dry skin.
And what does this have to do with hyaluronic acid? Studies have shown that the skin's own moisture can influence the effect of a skincare product containing hyaluronic acid. This means that the better moisturized the skin is, the more effectively a cream or serum with hyaluronic acid will work on it. This is because more water is available for the active ingredient to bind to itself. (6)
This leads to a clear recommendation for regular use of good moisturizing serums with hyaluronic acid. This results in better skin hydration, which in turn provides hyaluronic acid with more water to act even more effectively.
For optimal results, we recommend a moisturizing serum that contains various forms of hyaluronic acid, including the cross-linked variant. This way, the skin can be intensely moisturized, and hyaluronic acid can unfold its full effect. VENYA's Healthy Aging Multi-Functional Serum combines these properties and ensures long-term hydration.
Serum with Hyaluronic Acid? – Decision Aid
If you decide on a skincare product with hyaluronic acid, first check to what extent it contains a combination of different forms of hyaluronic acid and whether the latest variant of the active ingredient – cross-linked hyaluronic acid – is also included.
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Hyaluronic acid is a valuable ingredient in skincare that optimally moisturizes the skin and ensures youthful, radiant skin. Choose high-quality skincare products with cross-linked hyaluronic acid for the best results.
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Furthermore, it is advisable to use the moisturizing product regularly so that the skin's own moisture increases, which in turn allows the hyaluronic acid in the skin to act more effectively. Venya's Healthy Aging Multi-Functional Serum contains not only two forms of hyaluronic acid but also other moisturizing ingredients, which will potentially increase the binding capacity of hyaluronic acid.
Overall, the ongoing hype around hyaluronic acid is not exaggerated. However, with the wide selection of skincare with the active ingredient, it is necessary to take a closer look at what the products contain. A serum with cross-linked hyaluronic acid and a mix of different hyaluronic acid molecular sizes seems to be the best choice at present.
Sources for further reading
Pavicic, T./Gauglitz, G. et al. (2011): Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment, Randomized Controlled Trial in: Journal of Drugs in dermatology, Sep;10(9): 990-1000
Draelos, Z.D./Diaz, et al. (2021): Efficacy Evaluation of a Topical Hyaluronic Acid Serum in Facial Photoaging, in: Dermatology and Therapy, Heidelberg (11), 1385-1394
Berkó, Sz./Maroda, M. et al (2013): Advantages of cross-linked versus linear hyaluronic acid for semisolid skin delivery systems, in: European Polymer Journal, Vol. 49(9), 2511-2517
Sundaram H./Mackiewicz N. et al (2016): Pilot Comparative Study of the Topical Action of a Novel, Crosslinked Resilient Hyaluronic Acid on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in a Dynamic, Three-Dimensional Human Explant Model. in: Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, Apr;15(4): 434-41
Buckley, C./Murphy, E.J. (2022): Hyaluronic Acid: A Review of the Drug Delivery Capabilities of This Naturally Occurring Polysaccharide, in: Polymers 14, 3442
Papakonstantinou E./Roth M./Karakiulakis G. (2012): Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging, in: Dermatoendocrinology, Jul 1;4(3): 253-8